June 2011 Asylum Mobilitarium

June 2011 Asylum Mobilitarium

I finally received author Rin Tanaka’s book, “Harley-Davidson Fashions, 1910-1950,” from the Harley-Davidson museum in Milwaukee.  As with Tanaka’s other books on vintage motorcycle clothing, this book features excellent photography and descriptions of items such as leather helmets and puttees, that most motorcyclists today have never seen, but at one time everyone who rode a motorcycle wore.

It’s interesting to see motorcyclists clothing evolve over the years. In the teens, bike riders wore coats that were bulky and mostly made of fabric. Zippers at one time were an expensive item apparently. Zippers on jackets and pants did not see wide spread use until the late 1930’s.

The photos of riders dressed in outfits that looked like military uniforms in the 1930’s are especially interesting. Jodhpur riding pants, cavalry boots, and leather and cloth flying caps were all the rage. There were rallies, some were put on by the AMA and called “Gypsy Tours,” where the trophy for “best dressed club,” was a coveted prize. What’s ironic is that some of the men and women wearing these club uniforms would be wearing a real military uniform in just a few years after WWII began.

After WWII, some veterans, especially air crew members, brought home their leather jackets and began riding motorcycles. Clothing manufacturers took note of this popular trend, and realized the safety aspect in wearing leather. After the film “The Wild One,” came out in 1953, there were few throttle –twisters that didn’t have a Marlon Brando type “Schott” or “Langlitz” black leather jacket hanging in their closet.

The traditional motorcycle jacket worn today hasn’t changed much since the fifties. What has changed is that the belt that you see on most jackets nowadays did not come about until riders complained that cold air would rush under the backs of their jackets when at speed. The built in belt that you see on most jackets is the result of manufacturers trying to solve this problem.  

Harley-Davidson has been making motorcycle jackets and clothing since their first catalog came out in 1910. They still sell traditional leather jackets, but also have taken a nod from other manufacturers in offering modern fabrics that shed water, have built in armor, reflective capability and other advances in biker clothing.

Tanaka’s next book I hear will be the history of Harley-Davidson clothing from 1950- to the present. Once again he will be given access to the more than 100,000 photos that are available to researchers in the museum. I’ll be especially interested in seeing the products that were offered during the AMF era. Apparently the jackets, gloves, pants, and helmets that were offered during the 1970’s are really collectable.

During the days of AMF ownership, many if not most riders of Harley-Davidson’s grudgingly bought bikes from a company that most thought was ruining the brand. Some riders, when they brought their new purchase home from the dealership would scrape the letters “AMF” off the tanks of their bikes to show their disgust with the massive conglomerate that also made pool tables and bowling balls.

Traditional buyers of Harley bikes in the 70’s may have figured that if they wanted a new Harley they would have to buy one from AMF, but if they wanted a jacket, they could protest and go somewhere else. And they did. So for this reason, if you find a piece of vintage motorcycle wear that has “AMF” anywhere on it, buy it.   

You’re kids can sell it on E-Bay for big bucks 30-40 years from now.